While testing Serge Lutens perfumes at Barneys, I was immediately drawn to Chergui. It stood out from the rest of his collections: a mixtures of spice, musk, and sweet warmth.
After wearing Chergui, there was familiarity with this perfume. I couldn't quite put my finger on it. It feels like when you can't remember a word that is on the tip of your tongue.
Finally, I had a breakthrough: It was Opium by Yves Saint Laurent. I didn’t even know if Opium was still available, but I began my mission to find it. I never bought or wore it, but one of high school friend’s mother wore Opium. Looking back, this perfume perfectly suited her. My friend's mother was from Panama, who had warm, dark skin with loose wavy curls, draping her shoulders. When I picture her, I see her in winter; she is wearing a fuchsia colored dress with a fur jacket. She is dressed up and waits for her male friend. Her dress, body, and the scent of Opium exuded female confidence that was elusive and unfamiliar to a high school girl. So… I don’t know if unconsciously I bought Chergui in my attempt to be the figure of the woman whom I admired.
Recently, I was tested Opium; Chergui comes up short in its originality; however, I still enjoy wearing it on cold days, especially the wet ones. The warm scents of amber and honey somehow relieve the chills in my bones. The notes of tobacco leaf (think 80's Clove cigarettes) and leather add a hint of masculine quality. The incense, musk, and iris encourage my fantasy of growing up to be a sexy, mysterious woman, like my friend's mother. Funny thing is.. I am probably old as she was. Serge Luten Chergui fits the twenty-first century, forty-something woman.